1. Don't eat anything your great grandmother wouldn't recognize as food.
This, like all his recommendations, makes good sense when kept in the context of his book. Basically, he means that we need to go back to a cultural rather than a 'nutritional' definition of food. Taken on its own, however, eating what your great grandmother ate is odd advice. What did my great grandmother eat? I have no idea. I only met two of my great grandmothers, and I don't remember eating with either. There must have been family gatherings that involved food, but I only know that from photographs and home movies.
Here's another example of how Pollan's book betrays a peculiar sense of history. Does anyone remember what their great grandparents ate? Great grandmas usually aren't cooking anymore. I would have to ask my parents, or my grandma, what they remember. It would certainly make for an interesting conversation. But what would the scattered details amount to? Could they even describe a complete meal? And would I still want to eat that food? Something tells me "no."
Since I can't remember what my great grandma ate, I looked up a few idyllic farm meals described in books published between the 1930s and 1950s, which would overlap with the era in which my great grandmothers were cooking. Here are my favourite selections:
Mr. Bean - by Kurt Wiese |
"Late that evening, when Mr. Bean had finished the chores and had gone round to the barns and the hen-house and the pig-pen and turned out the lights and said good night to the animals in his gruff, kindly way and had then gone into the kitchen to eat a couple of apple dumplings and a piece of pie and a few doughnuts before going to bed, Freddy and Jinx when up into the loft." (p. 109)
From Charlotte's Web (1952) - Wilbur's slops (from Mrs. Zuckerman's kitchen):
"Breakfast at six-thirty. Skim milk, crusts, [wheat] middlings, bits of doughnuts, wheat cakes with drops of maple syrup sticking to them, potato skins, leftover custard pudding with raisins, and bits of Shredded Wheat. ...Twelve o'clock - lunchtime. Middlings, warm water, apple parings, meat gravy, carrot scrapings, meat scraps, stale hominy, and the wrapper off a package of cheese. ...At four would come supper. Skim milk, provender, leftover sandwich from Lurvy's lunchbox, prune skins, a morsel of this, a bit of that, fried potatoes, marmalade drippings, a little more of this, a little more of that, a piece of baked apple, a scrap of upsidedown cake." (p. 25-26)
Wilbur - by Garth Williams
Almanzo - by Garth Williams |
"Almanzo ate the sweet mellow baked beans. He ate the bit of salt pork that melted like cream in his mouth. He ate mealy boiled potatoes, with brown ham-gravy. He ate the ham. He bit deep into velvety bread spread with sleek butter, and he ate the crisp golden crust. He demolished a tall heap of pale mashed turnips, and a hill of stewed yellow pumpkin. Then he sighed, and tucked his napkin deeper into the neckband of his red waist. And he ate plum preserves, and strawberry jam, and grape jelly, and spiced watermelon-rind pickles. He felt very comfortable inside. Slowly he ate a large piece of pumpkin pie." (p. 28-29)
It all sounds wonderful, provided I could dine at the Zuckermans' before it went in the slop bucket. But who would be healthy eating like this nowadays? Not a head of lettuce to be seen, I notice (that strange cover image for Pollan's book). Nothing else green, either. Wilbur's apple & carrot parings are the only 'fresh' items on the menu. No, reverting to this diet wouldn't save me from any "Western diseases." I'm afraid my great grandmother's diet will have to remain history!